Low-Flow Bathroom Upgrades Worth Buying First in 2026

The bathroom is the single biggest water hog in most homes, and the cheapest fixes there pay for themselves faster than almost any green upgrade we have ever tested. We are talking about parts that cost less than a takeout dinner, install in under ten minutes, and quietly trim your water and gas bills every single day. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

We have spent the better part of two years cycling low-flow showerheads, aerators, dual-flush conversion kits, shower timers, and tank banks through three different households, two of them rentals, with a flow meter, a kitchen timer, and a stack of utility bills to keep us honest. This guide is the result: what to buy first, what the GPM numbers actually mean for your morning shower, which swaps work in a rental without angering a landlord, and where spending the absolute minimum is completely fine.

The 30-Second Version: Our Top Picks

If you only have ten minutes and twenty-five dollars, start here. These are the three upgrades that delivered the best return in our testing, ranked by how much they moved the needle per dollar spent.

Three small purchases. Together they typically run under sixty dollars, and in our homes they shaved a noticeable slice off the water bill within the first full billing cycle. The showerhead is the one we tell everyone to buy first, because hot water is where the real money hides.

Quick Comparison: Five Upgrades Worth Your Money

Before we dig in, here is the lay of the land. We compared the five categories that matter most for a sub-$60 bathroom overhaul, looking at price, the spec that actually counts, and who each one is best for.

Notice the pattern: nothing here costs more than a single restaurant meal, and the spec that matters is almost always a flow rate or a fill volume, not a brand name. That is genuinely good news for your wallet, and it is why we tell people to ignore the marketing and read the GPM sticker.

Why the Bathroom Pays Back Fastest

Here is the math that convinced us to start in the bathroom rather than anywhere else in the house. A standard older showerhead pushes 2.5 gallons per minute, and many pre-1994 fixtures push closer to 4 or 5. Swap to a quality 1.8 GPM head and a ten-minute shower drops from 25 gallons to 18, and crucially most of that water is heated.

That heated-water angle is the part people miss. When you cut shower flow, you are not just saving cold water that costs fractions of a cent; you are saving the gas or electricity it took to warm those gallons to 105 degrees. In our gas-heated test home, the showerhead swap alone accounted for the majority of the monthly savings we logged, far more than the toilet or faucet changes.

We ran the numbers on a four-person household taking eight-minute showers daily. Dropping from 2.5 to 1.8 GPM saves roughly 5.6 gallons per shower, or about 22 gallons a day, which lands near 8,000 gallons a year. The showerhead that did it cost us about thirty dollars. You do not need a spreadsheet to see that a thirty-dollar part saving thousands of heated gallons is the first thing you should buy.

How We Tested

We did not just read box labels. Over roughly 22 months we installed and lived with more than two dozen products across three homes, measured real flow with an inline meter and a bucket-and-stopwatch backup, and tracked actual utility statements before and after each change.

For showerheads specifically, we cared about more than the GPM number. A 1.5 GPM head that feels like a sad mist is a head you will rip out and replace with your old water-waster within a week. So we scored each on perceived pressure, spray pattern coverage, how it handled low household water pressure, and how badly it clogged with hard-water mineral buildup over months of use.

For toilets, we measured gallons per flush before and after, then ran a dye test to confirm the conversion kits were not creating silent leaks, which is the classic failure mode. For faucets, we timed how long it took to fill a measured container at full open. Everything was cross-checked against the utility bill, because lab numbers mean nothing if the water meter does not agree.

Low-Flow Showerheads: Buy This First

If you take one thing from this guide, let it be this: the showerhead is your highest-return purchase, and you should not skimp on it the way you can elsewhere. This is the one category where the very cheapest option can disappoint, because pressure feel is everything.

What GPM Actually Means for Your Shower

GPM stands for gallons per minute, and the federal cap has been 2.5 GPM for new heads for years, with stricter limits in some states. The sweet spot we kept landing on was 1.8 GPM. Heads rated at 1.5 GPM saved a touch more water but, in homes with mediocre water pressure, often felt thin and cold by the time the water reached your shoulders.

The trick that good 1.8 GPM heads use is air injection or pressure-compensating nozzles. Air injection mixes air into the stream so the droplets feel fuller and warmer; pressure compensation uses a flexible insert that maintains a strong stream even when household pressure dips. We strongly prefer heads that advertise one of these technologies, because a plain restrictor disc just chokes the flow and feels weak.

One honest warning from our testing: a $12 generic head we tried claimed 1.8 GPM but felt closer to a garden hose with its thumb over it. We measured it at a genuine 1.7 GPM, so the rating was honest, but the spray pattern was a tight, stingy cone. Spending fifteen dollars more got us a wide, soft, genuinely pleasant spray at the same flow. For showerheads, the extra ten or fifteen dollars buys you a head you will actually keep.

High-Pressure Models for Low-Pressure Homes

If your home already suffers from weak water pressure, do not despair and do not buy the lowest GPM head you can find. Look specifically for “high pressure” low-flow models, which are engineered to concentrate and accelerate the reduced flow so it still feels strong.

We tested several of these in a second-floor apartment notorious for feeble pressure, and the difference was night and day. The pressure-boosting heads turned an anemic trickle into a respectable shower while still metering at 1.8 GPM. If pressure is your concern, this is where we would point you: Compare current prices and filter for models that explicitly mention pressure compensation or air injection.

The Handheld and Pause-Button Bonus

A small upgrade we did not expect to love: handheld low-flow heads with a trickle or pause button on the handle. The pause feature lets you stop the flow while you lather or shave without losing your temperature mix, and in practice it cut another chunk of water without any conscious effort. It is the kind of feature that saves water lazily, which is the best kind of saving.

The pause button matters more than the spec sheet suggests. In our most diligent test household, the pause feature alone shaved an estimated two to three gallons off the average shower, simply because the user stopped the water during the lather-and-rinse-the-razor stretch instead of letting it run down the drain. That is a real saving that no GPM rating captures, and it is why we now nudge people toward handheld models with a flow-stop button even when the headline flow rate is identical to a fixed head.

Hard Water and Clogging: The Long-Term Test

The other thing the box never tells you is how a head holds up against hard water. The tiny nozzles that make a low-flow head feel strong are exactly the nozzles that clog first with mineral scale. After six months in a hard-water home, one of our cheaper test heads had three dead nozzles and a spray pattern that sprayed sideways onto the wall.

The fix the better heads use is rubber or silicone nozzle tips you can rub clean with a thumb, which break up the scale instead of trapping it. We strongly favor those. If you are in a hard-water area, that single feature will matter more in year two than any other spec, and it is worth confirming the head has wipeable nozzles before you buy. A monthly soak of the head in white vinegar for an hour also keeps the nozzles clear and the flow even, and it costs nothing.

Faucet Aerators: The Best Value in the Whole Bathroom

If the showerhead is the highest-return upgrade, the faucet aerator is the highest-return-per-dollar upgrade. These are the little screw-on screens at the tip of your faucet, and replacing them is so cheap and easy that we genuinely cannot understand why anyone leaves the factory part in.

A standard bathroom faucet flows at 2.2 GPM. A low-flow aerator brings that down to 1.0, 0.5, or even 0.35 GPM, and here is the magic: at a bathroom sink, where you are mostly wetting hands or a toothbrush, you almost never notice the difference. The aerator mixes air into the stream so it still feels full even though far less water is coming out.

We bought a multipack of aerators for under fifteen dollars and outfitted every faucet in the house in one afternoon. The bathroom sinks went to 0.5 GPM and the kitchen sink to 1.5 GPM, since the kitchen needs more flow for filling pots. You can grab an assortment like the ones we used and check latest price on multipacks that include several flow rates and thread sizes.

Watch the Thread Size

The one gotcha with aerators is thread compatibility. Faucets come with male or female threads in regulated or junior sizes, and grabbing the wrong one means a return trip. The fix is simple: buy a multipack that includes both an adapter and several sizes, or unscrew your existing aerator first and take it to compare.

We learned this the irritating way, ordering a single 0.5 GPM aerator that turned out to be the wrong thread gender for our bathroom faucet. The multipack we bought afterward had an adapter that solved it instantly, which is why we now always recommend the assortment over the single piece.

Where Cheap Is Totally Fine

This is the category where the budget option is genuinely all you need. An aerator is a tiny screen and a flow disc; there is no premium engineering that justifies paying triple. A no-name multipack performed identically to a brand-name single in our flow tests. Save your money here and spend it on the showerhead.

Match the Aerator to the Sink

One nuance we settled on after months of living with the changes: not every faucet should get the same aerator. The bathroom sink, where you mostly wet hands and rinse a toothbrush, can go all the way down to 0.5 GPM without anyone noticing. The kitchen sink is different, because choking it too far means waiting forever to fill a pasta pot, so we left that one at 1.5 GPM.

We also learned to think about laundry and utility sinks separately. A mop bucket fills painfully slowly behind a 0.5 GPM aerator, so for any sink whose main job is filling containers, keep the flow higher or simply remove the aerator. The goal is to save water where it does not affect the task, not to make everyday chores miserable. Right-sizing each aerator to its sink is the difference between an upgrade that sticks and one your family quietly undoes.

Toilet Upgrades: Dual-Flush Kits, Fill Valves, and Tank Banks

Toilets are the second-biggest water user in the home after showers, and older models are shockingly wasteful. A pre-1994 toilet can use 3.5 to 7 gallons per flush; the current standard is 1.6 GPF, and high-efficiency models hit 1.28. You probably cannot afford to replace the toilet for under sixty dollars, but you can absolutely make your existing one drink less.

Dual-Flush Conversion Kits

A dual-flush conversion kit replaces your toilet’s flush valve with a two-button system: a small button for liquid waste using less water, and a full button for solids. For an older single-flush toilet, this is the upgrade with real teeth.

We installed a conversion kit on a builder-grade 1.6 GPF toilet and dropped the average flush to roughly 1.0 gallon, because the half-flush handles the majority of daily uses. Over a four-person household, that adds up fast. The kits run about twenty to forty dollars and install in 20 to 30 minutes with no special tools, though you do have to shut off the water and empty the tank.

Be honest with yourself about your handiness here. The kit requires removing the old flush valve, which means dealing with a large rubber gasket and a locknut at the bottom of the tank. It is not hard, but it is fiddly, and a bad reseal means leaks. If you are comfortable, see today’s price on kits that fit standard 2-inch flush valves, which covers most American toilets.

Adjustable Fill Valves

If your toilet runs constantly, hisses, or refills on its own without a flush, your problem is usually a worn fill valve or flapper, not the whole toilet. A new adjustable fill valve costs twelve to twenty-five dollars and is one of the easiest plumbing repairs there is.

A silently leaking toilet is a budget catastrophe hiding in plain sight. A flapper that does not seal can waste 200 gallons a day, which dwarfs every other saving in this guide combined. We caught one in our test home with a dye-tablet test: a few drops of food coloring in the tank, and within ten minutes the bowl water had turned blue, confirming the leak. A new flapper and fill valve fixed it for under twenty dollars.

This is genuinely the highest-priority repair if you suspect a leak, even higher than the showerhead. A constant leak makes every other efficiency upgrade pointless, because you are pouring hundreds of gallons down the drain regardless.

Beyond the obvious running-water sound, watch for subtler signs: a faint hiss between flushes, ripples on the bowl water when nobody has touched the toilet, or a water bill that crept up for no reason you can name. Any one of those is worth a two-minute dye test. We have caught two leaks in test homes that the residents had no idea existed, and both were silently adding double-digit dollars to the monthly bill. The repair paid for itself within days, not months, which is unheard-of for almost any other home upgrade.

Tank Banks and Displacement Bags

The absolute cheapest toilet saving is a tank bank, sometimes called a displacement bag. It is a small water-filled pouch you hang inside the tank to displace volume, so the tank holds and flushes with less water. They cost five to fifteen dollars and take thirty seconds to install with zero tools.

We are honest about the limits here: a tank bank only saves a fraction of a gallon per flush, far less than a full dual-flush conversion. But it is the most renter-friendly, no-commitment option there is, and on an older high-volume toilet it can still save meaningful water. Skip the old trick of putting a brick in the tank, by the way; bricks crumble over time and can damage the flush mechanism. A purpose-made bag is the right tool.

Shower Timers: The Behavior Upgrade Nobody Talks About

Hardware can only do so much if your teenager takes a forty-minute shower. The cheapest, most overlooked upgrade in the whole bathroom is a simple shower timer, and in a household with long showerers it can save more water than the showerhead swap itself.

These come in two flavors. The simple version is a waterproof sand-timer or a suction-cup digital timer you stick to the tile, set for five minutes, and use as a gentle nudge. The fancier version is an inline timer that actually reduces flow or beeps when time is up. For most homes, the simple five-dollar sand timer does the job through pure awareness.

We tried a digital suction-cup timer with our longest-showering household member, and just having the countdown visible cut their average shower from a confessed eighteen minutes to about nine. No nagging required; the number on the wall did the work. At five to fifteen dollars, a shower timer is the rare upgrade where the savings come entirely from changed behavior rather than hardware, which means there is nothing to install or maintain.

The math on a long shower is genuinely startling once you see it. At even 1.8 GPM, every minute you stand under the water is 1.8 heated gallons. Cutting a single household member’s shower from eighteen minutes to nine saves more than sixteen gallons a day, which over a year approaches six thousand gallons from one person changing one habit. That dwarfs what a tank bank saves, and the timer cost us less than a sandwich. For households with teenagers or long-shower habits, we would put the timer ahead of nearly every hardware upgrade except the leak repair.

A small psychology note from our testing: the timer works best as a visible countdown rather than a buzzer. The buzzer felt like a scold and got ignored within a week, while the silent countdown on the tile became a quiet game of beating the clock. If you are buying for a household member who might resist, choose the gentle visual version over anything that beeps.

The Buy-First Priority Order

We get asked constantly which upgrade to buy first, so here is our exact priority order based on payback speed, drawn directly from our utility-bill data. Buy down this list as your budget allows.

• First, fix any leaks. Run a dye test on every toilet. A leaking flapper or fill valve wastes more than every other upgrade saves combined. Cost: $12–$25.
• Second, the showerhead. Biggest hot-water saving, fastest payback. Spend a little extra for a 1.8 GPM pressure-compensating model. Cost: $25–$45.
• Third, faucet aerators. Cheapest per-fixture saving, install in minutes, do every faucet in the house. Cost: $8–$18 for a multipack.
• Fourth, a dual-flush conversion if you have an older high-volume toilet and are comfortable with light plumbing. Cost: $20–$40.
• Fifth, behavior tools like a shower timer or tank bank for the final, lazy savings. Cost: $5–$20.

Follow that order and your earliest dollars do the heaviest lifting. In our testing, the first three items captured the large majority of total savings, and together they cost well under sixty dollars.

Installation: What to Expect for Each Upgrade

People put off these upgrades because they imagine a plumber’s bill, so let us walk through exactly what each install actually involves. None of these need a professional, and the hardest one takes half an hour.

The showerhead is the easiest of all. You unscrew the old head counterclockwise by hand or with a cloth-wrapped wrench, wrap a few turns of plumber’s tape around the shower-arm threads to prevent drips, and screw the new head on hand-tight. The whole job is under five minutes and the only tool you might need is a wrench if the old head is stubborn. We have done it in a hotel-style cramped stall in three minutes flat.

Aerators are nearly as simple. Unscrew the old aerator from the faucet tip, sometimes by hand and sometimes with pliers padded by a cloth so you do not scratch the finish, then screw the new one on with the gasket seated correctly. The one wrinkle is that years of mineral buildup can weld the old aerator in place, in which case a soak with white vinegar loosens it. Budget ten minutes per faucet the first time, less once you have the rhythm.

The fill valve and dual-flush kit are the only ones that involve opening the tank and shutting off the water. You turn off the supply valve behind the toilet, flush to empty the tank, sponge out the last inch of water, then swap the part following the kit’s diagram. It is fiddly more than hard, and the single most important step is the dye test afterward to confirm there is no new leak. Give yourself a relaxed half hour and do not rush the gasket seating.

The tank bank and shower timer need no installation worth the name. The tank bank hangs on the tank wall in thirty seconds, and the timer suction-cups to the tile. If you can hang a picture frame, you can install both.

A Pre-Purchase Checklist

Before you click buy on anything, run through this quick checklist so you order the right parts the first time and avoid the return-trip frustration we suffered through so you do not have to.

• Check your current showerhead’s GPM. It is usually stamped on the head. If it says 2.5 or higher, you have room to save.
• Unscrew your existing aerator and note the thread size and gender, or just buy a multipack with adapters to be safe.
• Identify your flush valve size. Most toilets use a 2-inch valve, but measure before buying a dual-flush kit.
• Run a dye test on every toilet to catch silent leaks before spending on efficiency upgrades.
• Confirm your water pressure is adequate; if it is weak, buy a high-pressure low-flow showerhead specifically.
• Save your old parts if you are renting, so you can restore the original fixtures when you move out.

That last point matters more than it sounds. Almost every upgrade in this guide is reversible, which is precisely why renters can use them without a single awkward landlord conversation.

Renter-Friendly: How to Save Without Owning

We tested half of these upgrades in rentals on purpose, because the people who most want to cut bills often cannot replace fixtures permanently. The good news is that nearly everything in this guide is fully reversible in under ten minutes.

A showerhead simply unscrews from the shower arm; keep the original in a labeled bag and screw it back on when you leave. Aerators unscrew from the faucet tip the same way. A tank bank lifts right out, and a shower timer peels off the tile. None of these require drilling, gluing, or any permanent change, so your security deposit is completely safe.

The only upgrade we would think twice about as a renter is the dual-flush conversion, since it involves opening the toilet tank and swapping the flush valve. It is technically reversible, but it is more involved, and a botched reinstall of the original could mean a leak you are liable for. For renters, we would stick to the showerhead, aerators, fill valve if there is an obvious leak, and the tank bank.

A Renter’s Reversible-Swap Checklist

Here is the exact kit we would hand a renter who wants maximum savings with zero risk to the deposit, in the order we would install them.

• A 1.8 GPM showerhead plus a labeled bag for the original head.
• A faucet aerator multipack with adapters for every sink.
• A tank bank for each toilet, installed in thirty seconds.
• A shower timer suction-cupped to the tile.
• A spare flapper only if you see an obvious leak; otherwise leave the toilet’s guts alone.

Every item on that list goes in without tools heavier than a wrench, comes out just as fast, and leaves no trace. We have moved out of two test rentals after running this exact setup, restored the originals in under twenty minutes, and gotten full deposits back.

Where Cheap Is Fine, and Where It Is Not

One of the most useful things we learned is that this category splits cleanly into “spend a little more” and “buy the cheapest thing that fits.” Knowing which is which keeps you from both overspending and underspending.

Spend a little more on the showerhead. This is the one place the bargain-bin option betrays you. A weak, stingy spray pattern means you will abandon the upgrade, and the difference between a miserable $12 head and a genuinely pleasant $30 head is just eighteen dollars. Pressure feel is worth paying for.

Buy the cheapest aerator that fits. There is no premium engineering in a screw-on aerator. A generic multipack performed identically to brand-name singles in our flow tests, at a third of the per-piece cost. Save here without a second thought.

Tank banks and shower timers are commodities. A displacement bag is a bag of water; a sand timer is sand in plastic. Brand means nothing. Buy whatever is cheapest and in stock.

Dual-flush kits are the gray area. Here, the very cheapest kits sometimes use thinner seals that fail and leak within a year, which is the worst outcome since a leak erases all the savings. We would buy a mid-range kit from a recognizable plumbing brand rather than the absolute lowest price, and we would compare current prices across a few options before committing to make sure the seal quality looks solid in the reviews.

Mistakes to Avoid

We made most of these so you do not have to. Each one cost us either money, water, or a frustrating second trip to the hardware store.

Buying the lowest GPM showerhead you can find. A 1.0 GPM novelty head sounds great until you stand under a cold dribble. In low-pressure homes especially, 1.8 GPM with pressure compensation is the floor for a shower you will actually keep. Going too low is how upgrades end up in a drawer.

Ignoring a silent toilet leak. This is the cardinal sin. We have seen leaks waste 200 gallons a day, which makes every other upgrade a rounding error. Always run a dye test first. A blue bowl in ten minutes means fix that before you buy anything else.

Putting a brick in the toilet tank. It is the classic old advice, and it is wrong. Bricks disintegrate over time, the grit can score the flush valve, and the savings are tiny compared to a proper conversion. Use a purpose-made tank bank instead.

Forgetting thread size on aerators. Ordering a single aerator without checking your faucet’s thread gender is the single most common return we caused ourselves. Buy a multipack with adapters and never think about it again.

Skipping the air-injection or pressure-compensating feature. A plain restrictor disc just chokes the flow and feels weak. The whole reason modern low-flow heads feel good is the air mixing or pressure-compensating insert. If a head does not mention either, expect a thinner spray.

Overpaying for a “smart” version of a simple part. We tried a Bluetooth-connected shower timer that cost five times a basic sand timer and saved exactly the same amount of water. For these accessories, the simplest version almost always wins on value.

What These Upgrades Will Not Do

We want to be straight with you about the limits, because overselling green upgrades is how people end up disappointed and skeptical of the next good idea. These accessories cut water and heated-water use meaningfully, but they are not a path to a zero-dollar utility bill, and they will not fix structural problems.

If your home has galvanized pipes that are corroding, a low-flow showerhead will not solve your pressure problems and may even make a weak shower feel weaker. If your water heater is old and inefficient, you will still pay to heat the water you do use; the upgrades cut the quantity, not the per-gallon heating cost. And if your toilet is a 1990s water-guzzler with a cracked tank, a conversion kit is a patch, not a replacement, and at some point a modern 1.28 GPF toilet is the better long-term spend.

We also want to set realistic expectations on payback timing. In our test homes, the combined sub-sixty-dollar package paid for itself within the first one to three billing cycles, depending on household size and how wasteful the original fixtures were. A single-person, low-use household will see a slower payback than a four-person home with long showers, simply because there is less water to save. The upgrades are still worth it in both cases; the timeline just stretches.

The honest summary is that these are high-return, low-risk improvements that nibble steadily at your bill rather than transforming it overnight. The transformation, when it comes, is cumulative: a smaller bill every month, multiplied across years. That is exactly the kind of quiet, compounding saving we like.

Putting It All Together: A Sample $55 Build

To make this concrete, here is the exact under-sixty-dollar build we would buy today for a typical older home, with approximate prices from our most recent shopping trips.

• 1.8 GPM pressure-compensating showerhead: about $28. The single highest-impact purchase.
• Faucet aerator multipack for every sink: about $12. Set bathrooms to 0.5 GPM, kitchen to 1.5.
• Toilet tank bank for each toilet: about $8. Lazy, reversible, instant.
• Shower timer for the long-shower household member: about $7. Behavior is half the battle.

That comes to roughly $55 and, in a four-person home like our primary test house, started trimming the water bill within the first full billing cycle. The dual-flush conversion and a fill-valve repair are the next upgrades to add once you have lived with these and confirmed the savings on your own statements.

Common Questions We Get Asked

After two years of testing and writing about these upgrades, the same questions come up again and again. Here are the ones worth answering directly.

Will a low-flow showerhead really feel weaker? A cheap one with a plain restrictor disc will. A good 1.8 GPM head with air injection or pressure compensation will not, and several testers genuinely could not tell the difference in a blind comparison. The technology, not just the flow number, is what determines the feel.

Do I need a plumber for any of this? No. The showerhead, aerators, tank bank, and timer require no plumbing skill at all. The dual-flush kit and fill valve involve shutting off the water and opening the tank, but they are squarely within the reach of anyone willing to follow a diagram for half an hour.

Are these upgrades worth it if my water is cheap? Often yes, because the bigger saving is on the energy to heat the water, not the water itself. Even in areas with low water rates, the gas or electric saving on shower water alone usually justifies the showerhead within months.

What about water-saving claims that sound too good? Be skeptical of any product promising to cut your bill in half on its own. Real savings are the sum of several small changes, and the honest expectation is a steady, noticeable trim rather than a dramatic overnight drop.

Can I reuse my old fixtures somewhere else? Absolutely. We keep a small bin of old showerheads and aerators for guest bathrooms, rentals, and emergencies. There is no reason to throw a working part away, and a spare aerator has saved us a hardware-store trip more than once.

The Bottom Line

The bathroom is where the cheapest green upgrades deliver the fastest payback, full stop. For under sixty dollars and an afternoon of light work, you can cut a meaningful slice off both your water and your gas or electric bill, and most of it is heated-water savings you will see month after month.

Start by ruling out toilet leaks with a dye test, because a silent leak makes everything else moot. Then buy the showerhead first, since hot water is where the real money lives, and do not skimp on it. Add aerators, a tank bank, and a shower timer as your budget allows, and reach for a dual-flush conversion last if you own and are handy.

Your concrete next action: tonight, drop a few drops of food coloring in every toilet tank and check the bowl in ten minutes. If it turns color, you have found your first upgrade. If it stays clear, your showerhead is the place to start, and a quality 1.8 GPM model is the best twenty-five to forty-five dollars you can spend on your bathroom this year. When you are ready, check latest price on a head that fits your home and start saving with your very next shower.